Obviously we’re not really from Kestell – pretty much no one
is. Home is the City of Gold, but after a weekend spent in this perfect little
slice of Eastern Free State heaven, we considered doing a swapsies. It takes
about three and a half hours to get there, so if you skip the Friday afternoon,
post-work drinkathon you could be unwinding in the peace and quiet by supper
time.
We stayed at Karma
Backpackers, which is actually run by Vera, the aunt of your dear writer – this
is mentioned in the spirit of transparency, but given the intriguing family
dynamics this, in no way, lends itself to travel blog nepotism. So let’s
get back to the important bits: The backpackers is laid back and homey, with comfy couches, a fireplace for when it's cold and a range of sleeping options, depending on whether you're alone, in a big group or just with your special someone. There’s a veggie patch that you’re welcome to
raid, and an orchard that provides produce for the award-winning jams that are
there for the tasting (and purchasing). Trust me when I say that you won’t want
to leave the kitchen. If you’re lucky you’ll be fattened up on hunks of
home-made bread, just-baked cakes and home-made ice cream – pure unadulterated
bliss… It is also home to Pixel, the coolest (and biggest) kitty - you will try to steal her.
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| The scene of all your over-eating crimes |
Kestell is perfectly located
to get you to a range of moutainy activities (range, get it?) and after all the
feeding you’re going to need to burn off some of those calories. On our first
day we woke early and drove to the Sentinal Car Park to climb up the famous
chain ladders on the Amphitheatre Hike. This is a must-do activity. Even the
terrified of heights half of this crew girded her loins and made her way up the
cliff face one rung at a time. High-five the shit out of everyone at the top
and then soak up the views. They will seriously make you stoked that you get to
call RSA your home. On our return from the moutain we stopped off at an
Ethiopian restaurant for a traditional meal that was both purse-friendly and
delicious. I know fresh air makes evrerything taste better (except maybe soggy
sarmies), but the food was truly exceptional. If you’re ever passing through Phuthaditjaba,
it’s worth a visit.
The next day we breakfasted
on home-made yoghurt (for realsies) and then high-tailed it to Golden Gate
National Park to go horse riding. The ponies are healthy and happy (and patient
with novice riders), and our guide was friendly. I think the hour long ride was
about R100pp, but it was definitely reasonable. If you’re less keen on
equestrian pursuits, there are loads of walking trails and a
2-day hike that you need to book for in advance.
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| Well hello there, pony friend |
The whole area is geared
towards outdoorsy pursuits. There are a couple of hikes to choose from, bicycle
township tours (if that’s your vibe) and take along your passport if you want
to pop into Lesotho for the day. The less athletically inclined could eat and
drink their way around Clarens as it’s not that far away either. In the summer
months, there is a nearby flooded quarry to swim in, but if you go in winter
pack warmly. We went back a couple of months later and nearly froze our poor
arseholes off… Like ‘frozen water pipes at the Lesotho border’ cold.
Word of warning – once you
hit the highway, petrol stations are few and far between and nothing re-stresses
your de-stressed self more than hurtling along on little more than petrol fumes.
Driving home, the atmosphere in the car was tense, and even the
usually-soothing tones of Springsteen did little to alleviate this. However we
did eventually roll into the Vaal 1-Stop – which actually doubles up as a
portal to hell on the last day of every long weekend – before the fumes ran
completely dry.
Find out more about Karma Backpackers here. Their website also offers info on
all the other activities as well.
